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Petzl - Reverso 4

This multi-purpose belay/rappel device is ultra-light (59 g, 25 % lighter than the REVERSO 3) and intuitive to use. V-shaped friction channels with asymmetrical lateral grooves adapt the friction to the type of rope for better control (ARC technology: braking control for twin, half and single dynamic ropes). Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds with assisted braking.
The Reverso 4 regulates the amount of braking friction on the rope according to its diameter and condition; Reverso mode.

Technical specifications & features

Weight 59 g (0.13 lbs)
Works with Ropes half ropes & twin ropes ≥ 7.5 mm and single ropes ≥ 8.9 mm
Material Hot-forged aluminum body.
Other Features Rope compatibility:
For use on half ropes & twin ropes ≥ 7.5 mm and single ropes ≥ 8.9 mm

Certification(s): UIAA

Ultra-light design:
- minimalist construction
- hot-forged aluminum
- Weight: 59 g
A single device for all rope types:
- effective braking on half and twin ropes ≥ 7.5 mm
- effective braking on single ropes ≥ 8.9 mm
- can belay the leader, one or two seconding climbers and can be used for rappelling
- independent and simultaneous belaying of one or two seconding climbers in Reverso mode
- quick changeovers from Reverso mode to belaying the leader when climbing multi-pitch routes
V-shaped friction channels:
- increased friction on thin ropes
- friction is adapted for larger diameter ropes
- increases the locking pressure on the ropes in Reverso mode
Asymmetrically grooved sidewalls:
- increased braking power during a leader or top rope fall or while rappelling
- rope slides smoothly through device when taking up slack
Carabiner hole allows the loaded device in Reverso mode to be easily and gradually released with only a carabiner
Rope friendly, allows for smooth belaying and rope handling:
- will not kink the ropes regardless of the mode used
- separates the two strands of rope when belaying and rappelling
Intuitive use:
- Reverso mode aluminum attachment point is easy to identify
- keeper cable keeps the device from moving up the rope when belaying and reduces chances of losing the device
- usage diagrams (standard belay and Reverso modes) engraved on device
Use with symmetrical locking carabiners (Am'D or WILLIAM) to maximize efficiency

Product Reviews

A must have for multi-pitch climbing
The Reverso make belaying off of the anchor a breeze. This is the most versatile belay device one can buy.

The grooved slots on the break hand make friction on 2-rope rappels and catching climbers very responsive. The user can also flip the device around and have their break hand on the smooth side, as a normal ATC would. Clipping the Reverso into an anchor for the auto-camming feature is a must for multi-pitch climbs.

The Reverso is lighter and can handle smaller rope diameters (down to 8.9 for single ropes) than BD's version. Also, the orientation of the clip in point is such that the rope lies side to side in front of the belayer, as opposed to front and back with BD's ATC Guide.

A highly versatile, do it all belay and rappel device. Review by S. Semansky

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